Primer Coat Down

 Bus, Paint  Comments Off on Primer Coat Down
Oct 062010
 

Got the Rust-Oleum Clean Metal Primer down today.  Phew.  Fumy.

Navistar International ISIS DVD

 Bus, Planning  Comments Off on Navistar International ISIS DVD
Oct 052010
 

While this does not seem to have all the information I was looking for, it does have a great deal of the information I needed for the engine.  Huzzah!

Excess Oxide Removed

 Bus, Cleaning, Metalwork, Paint, Pictures  Comments Off on Excess Oxide Removed
Oct 052010
 

Cough.  Sputter.  Good lord that was a lot of dust even with mask.  Due to the severity, I ended up using a fine steel wire brush on the drill.  Worked perfect.  Swept and air hosed out the bus several times.  Everything is ready for tomorrow being paint day.  Assuming I don’t end up seriously ill.

Random Lessons I Have Learned: Part 2

 Bus, Gripe, Metalwork, Paint  Comments Off on Random Lessons I Have Learned: Part 2
Oct 042010
 

Bus smoke!  Don’t  breathe this!

Seriously.  Wear a mask.  That thick white powder is zinc oxide.  You know, the stuff that makes welders sick?  While I was smart enough to wear the mask for the bulk of today’s experimental scrubbing in a dry area, I failed to do so in a patch at the back door.  It wasn’t much, but it was enough to make me feel like crap.  It isn’t just for welders to keep in mind.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fume_fever

Ospho Applied

 Bus, Paint  Comments Off on Ospho Applied
Oct 032010
 

This time I was smart enough to wear gloves and rubber boots.  Yay me.

Bad News: Coolant

 Bus, Planning  Comments Off on Bad News: Coolant
Oct 022010
 

When I removed the heater coolant loop I found two very bad things:

  1. It was green.
  2. It had gunk in it, likely small amounts of settled oil.

Now.  Why is it being green bad you ask?  It is because the DT466, while a magnificent engine, is prone to various issues if one uses improper fluids or simply doesn’t change them out when scheduled.  Green antifreeze is /not/ what makes the engine happy.  Green antifreeze is what makes the sleeves eat through rapidly due to cavitation.

The second problem, the gunk?  Yeah, fairly obvious do-not-want issue. 😛

Worst case was I have to do a rebuild, looks more likely that will be the case.  Roughly $1100 and I get to basically start new on engine wear.  Not a bad deal.

TSP Stage Complete

 Bus, Cleaning, Paint, Pictures  Comments Off on TSP Stage Complete
Oct 022010
 

Started a bit late today, ground down all the rust with a 6″ course grind wheel on a drill.  An angle grinder or some such probably would have been better as while the drill was far more maneuverable, it was shaking hell out of my hands.  That matters when you are doing several hours of that crap.

I’ve also removed the radiator hoses on the loop leading to the passenger front and passenger back heaters.  Didn’t like the fluids one bit, more on that in a following post.

After sweeping and using compressed air to clean out all the debris, I used a strong solution of TSP in hot water and a scrub bush to work my way across each panel, spraying and scrubbing.  After that ordeal, I used remaining solution to spray over the entire floor and some spots I wanted to insure were clean.  This was soon followed up with hosing out the bus with a spray nozzle several times until I was satisfied.  Remaining standing water was swept out, fan was put in on high to help it all evaporate one more time.

Random Lessons I Have Learned: Part 1

 Bus  Comments Off on Random Lessons I Have Learned: Part 1
Oct 022010
 
  1. Start from the beginning with a good, full canister dust mask.
  2. Wear a decent pair of rubber gloves and rubber boots when working with TSP.

Current State

 Bus, Pictures  Comments Off on Current State
Oct 012010
 

Some quick pictures of the floor post drying.

Paint Plan

 Bus, Paint, Planning  Comments Off on Paint Plan
Oct 012010
 

So, apparently painting is a lot more difficult than I thought.  After a good amount of research, I’ve reworked the plan and bought all the appropriate products.

Physical Clean:

  • Grind to remove remaining/missed screws and nubs.
  • Wire brush all rust spots.

Chemical Clean:

  • TSP (TriSodium Phosphate) – Clean of grease/glue/etc.
  • Ospho Rust Treatment for Metal – Galvanized Metal Etch & Rust Conversion/Primer

Paint:

  • One coat Rust-Oleum Professional White Clean Metal Primer
  • One coat Rust-Oleum Professional Paint

The end color will be Smoke Grey in this case as it was the least offensive not-white color available locally.  So far as I can tell via hours of research and talking to several people, this is indeed the best route to go if not overkill.  As I have no bloody intention of having to do this again, overkill is good!

I’ve yet to decide what manner of topping will go onto this.  If I go with foam panels for the floor, I will likely end up going with a spray in truck bed liner for long term durability and sound dampening.  If I go with a high density spray in foam for the floor similar to what I intend to do for walls and ceiling, it will likely stay as it is.  The latter is a bit more expensive in the short term, but I am leaning strongly in that direction.